Spring Clean-up The time to remove all the leaves, branches, and other trash from your yard and flower beds is mid-March. The best power blowers are used, but you can also use a rake to remove the debris. You should rake gently! Wait until your lawn is dry before you rake it if it is still damp. Light raking is used to “fluff up”, which separates grass shoots and increases air circulation.
Spring lawn cleanup is a great way to assess the condition of your lawn. Do not power rake or aerate your lawn yet.
Avoid aggressively raking the lawn until it is firm. This usually happens in late April or May. This will help reduce the damage done to tender grass plants that are in dormancy. Also, make sure you clean up after your dog while you are out on the lawn. Your lawn will be grateful.
Check your soil’s pH: It is a great way to save money on fertilizers and water. You can find soil test kits at your local nursery or home improvement stores. These kits are great for learning about soil health. There are also meters that can measure pH, moisture, and light.
The soil test can help you determine if your soil is acidic or neutral and what elements to add to fix it. Healthy soil supplies nutrients and is a foundation for healthy plants. It’s made up of minerals and organic matter (living and deceased). You can improve your soil health and have a beautiful garden or lawn for the rest of your life.
Winter kill or bare patches? Spring lawn cleanup is the best time to plant seed to repair these areas. Plain seed can be used or you can mix in mulch to repair the area. First, remove any dead plants.
It doesn’t necessarily have to be removed completely. Spread a thin layer of compost/soil mix on the area. Spread the seed evenly without crowding. Then, gently drag the seed into soil using your back or a rake. This will ensure that the seed remains in contact with the soil, but not buried.
Don’t water new seeds if you plant them in March. Spring weather will likely give the seed a head start. During the seed’s growth, water must be given immediately and the seedbed must remain moist for at least 30 days.
Apply Fertilizer – Many homeowners apply too much fertilizer when there is no green grass growth. It is best to start fertilizing in the spring with a small amount and then increase the dose as the growth slows down. Although it may seem too early to fertilize, fertilizing your lawn now will make your lawn grow faster and more robust.
Use Pre-Emergent Herbicide Sometimes it’s easier to tackle weeds early than they emerge. Mid-March is the best month to control crabgrass, and other weeds. They won’t be growing as fast as they used to but they will soon. Once weeds are significantly developed and grown, herbicides will not be as effective. If weeds have grown significantly, weed plucking might be the best solution.
Prepare Your Mower Would a hairdresser cut your hair using a pair of dull scissors and a pair ? You need to check your lawn mower’s condition and replace or sharpen your mower blades.
Instead of cutting the grass leaves smoothly, dull blades can tear them. Tearing the grass leaves can cause damage to the plant, as well as promote diseases and insect infestations. Make sure you clean the mower’s underside from any matted grass. Is it time to change the spark plug? What is the best oil for your engine? What is a Fuel Filter? Consult an expert if you have any questions.
Different grass types have different optimal mowing lengths. Bluegrass and Fescue prefer a height of 2 to 2.5 inches for their first spring mowings. The mowing deck should be raised to 3 inches after that. If you are cutting more than 1/3 of your grass at once, it is not healthy for your lawn. In addition, make sure you sharpen the blades in late July or early august if you have a large lot.
Last tip: Make sure to change your mowing patterns every time you mow. This will avoid leaving tracks on your lawn.
Aeration : Late April is the best time to check your soil’s health and aerate. Perforating the soil through small holes allows air, water, and nutrients to reach the grass roots. This allows the roots to grow deeper and gives rise to a healthier lawn. Aerating the soil is necessary to reduce soil compaction.
Dethatching Healthy grass has some thatch. It’s recommend not to do any de-thatching unless there is a clear indication that you have excessive thatch. It is okay to have a thatch layer no more than 1/2 inch thick. It is considered excessive if the thatch layer becomes thick enough to prevent water and air from reaching grass roots.
Measure the thickness of thatch by piercing through the brown layer to the soil below the grass blades. From there, measure the thickness the thatch layer. If excessive thatch is required, you should not rake vigorously or use power raking. This should be done only in late April or early mai.